Hard Wired Cold Lead

$18.95

Length

Clear

Heavy-Duty “Cold Lead” Power Connection Cord

The Bridge Between Your Power and Your Protection.

You’ve got the best heat cable on the roof. Don’t choke the system with a weak power connection.

This Heavy-Duty Weather-Rated Cold Lead is the professional standard for hard-wiring your heat cable system directly to a junction box. We call it a “Cold Lead” because it carries the power from your house to the roof without heating up itself. It is built with a thick, UV-resistant rubber jacket designed to survive years of baking sun and freezing ice without cracking or becoming brittle.

Why Pros Use This Lead:

Universal Compatibility: Whether you are running a standard 120V residential loop or a high-output 240Vcommercial system, this cord handles the load safely and reliably.
Hard-Wired Reliability: Designed for a permanent installation. No plugs to fall out, no extension cords to trip over. This terminates directly into a weatherproof junction box using standard wire nuts.
Rugged Outdoor Jacket: This isn’t indoor wire. The heavy-duty outer sheath is engineered to resist abrasion, moisture, and UV damage, ensuring the copper inside stays dry and conductive.
Zero Waste: Available in custom cut-to-length options. Whether your junction box is 2 feet away or 50 feet away, you buy exactly what you need.

Technical Specs:

Type: 3-Wire Outdoor Power Cable (Cold Lead)
Conductors: Black (Load), White (Neutral), Green (Ground)
Voltage Rating: Rated for up to 600V (Works perfectly for 120V, 208V, 240V, 277V)
Function: Non-Heating Power Transmission Only.

🛠 Tools You Will Need:

Installing a hard-wired power lead requires basic electrical tools. Have these ready:

Wire Strippers: You need a quality pair capable of stripping 12-14 gauge wire.
Utility Knife: To carefully score and remove the thick, weather-resistant outer rubber jacket without slicing the inner insulation.
Screwdriver: To open your waterproof junction box and secure the terminals.
Adjustable Wrench or Channellocks: Essential for tightening the watertight strain relief (cable gland) where the cord enters the box. If this isn’t tight, water will get in.

🔥 Pro-Tips from the Field

Installation advice from Eric Wimmer to keep your system safe.

The “Drip Loop” is Mandatory: When running this cord from your junction box to the heat cable connection point, always leave a small “U” shaped loop of slack hanging lower than the entry point. This ensures that rain runs down the cord and drips off the bottom, rather than tracking right into your electrical box.
Use a Strain Relief: Never let the weight of the cord hang on the wire nuts alone. Always use a proper watertight strain relief connector (cable gland) where this cord enters the junction box to lock it in place.
Color Code Check:
- For 120V: Black is Hot, White is Neutral, Green is Ground.
- For 240V: You will typically use the White wire as your second “Hot” leg (mark it with black or red tape to be code-compliant), and Green is Ground.

⚠️ CRITICAL WARNINGS

THIS IS NOT HEAT CABLE: This cord does not produce heat. It is strictly for transporting electricity from the power source to the start of the heating cable run. Do not attempt to use this to melt snow.
WATERTIGHT CONNECTION REQUIRED: The point where this Cold Lead connects to your Heat Cable must be sealed with a Power Connection Kit (Splice Kit). You cannot just twist the wires together and wrap them in tape. That will fail and trip your breaker.

THE WASATCH STANDARD:

We believe in doing it right the first time. This kit gives you everything you need to make a splice that you never have to worry about again.

THE WASATCH GUARANTEE:

We stand behind our craftsmanship. Every Plug ‘N’ Play kit is backed by an unbeatable 10-Year Limited Warranty. We build them to last, so you can sleep soundly while the snow melts.

NEED HELP WITH LAYOUT?

Check out our “Diagrams & Layouts” page or watch Eric’s latest tutorial to see exactly how to space your clips and apply M-1 glue for a leak-free install. – Coming Soon!