Hard Wired Cold Lead
$18.95
Heavy-Duty “Cold Lead” Power Connection Cord
This heat cable cold lead provides a hard wired power connection for pipe freeze protection and roof deicing systems.
The Bridge Between Your Power and Your Protection.
You’ve got the best heat cable on the roof. Don’t choke the system with a weak power connection.
This Heavy-Duty Weather-Rated Cold Lead is the professional standard for hard-wiring your heat cable system directly to a junction box. We call it a “Cold Lead” because it carries the power from your house to the roof without heating up itself. It is built with a thick, UV-resistant rubber jacket designed to survive years of baking sun and freezing ice without cracking or becoming brittle.
Why Pros Use This Lead:
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Universal Compatibility: Whether you are running a standard 120V residential loop or a high-output 240Vcommercial system, this cord handles the load safely and reliably.
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Hard-Wired Reliability: Designed for a permanent installation. No plugs to fall out, no extension cords to trip over. This terminates directly into a weatherproof junction box using standard wire nuts.
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Rugged Outdoor Jacket: This isn’t indoor wire. The heavy-duty outer sheath is engineered to resist abrasion, moisture, and UV damage, ensuring the copper inside stays dry and conductive.
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Zero Waste: Available in custom cut-to-length options. Whether your junction box is 2 feet away or 50 feet away, you buy exactly what you need.
Technical Specs:
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Type: 3-Wire Outdoor Power Cable (Cold Lead)
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Conductors: Black (Load), White (Neutral), Green (Ground)
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Voltage Rating: Rated for up to 600V (Works perfectly for 120V, 208V, 240V, 277V)
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Function: Non-Heating Power Transmission Only.
🛠 Tools You Will Need:
Installing a hard-wired power lead requires basic electrical tools. Have these ready:
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Wire Strippers: You need a quality pair capable of stripping 12-14 gauge wire.
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Utility Knife: To carefully score and remove the thick, weather-resistant outer rubber jacket without slicing the inner insulation.
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Screwdriver: To open your waterproof junction box and secure the terminals.
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Adjustable Wrench or Channellocks: Essential for tightening the watertight strain relief (cable gland) where the cord enters the box. If this isn’t tight, water will get in.
🔥 Pro-Tips from the Field
Installation advice from Eric Wimmer to keep your system safe.
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The “Drip Loop” is Mandatory: When running this cord from your junction box to the heat cable connection point, always leave a small “U” shaped loop of slack hanging lower than the entry point. This ensures that rain runs down the cord and drips off the bottom, rather than tracking right into your electrical box.
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Use a Strain Relief: Never let the weight of the cord hang on the wire nuts alone. Always use a proper watertight strain relief connector (cable gland) where this cord enters the junction box to lock it in place.
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Color Code Check:
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For 120V: Black is Hot, White is Neutral, Green is Ground.
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For 240V: You will typically use the White wire as your second “Hot” leg (mark it with black or red tape to be code-compliant), and Green is Ground.
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⚠️ CRITICAL WARNINGS
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THIS IS NOT HEAT CABLE: This cord does not produce heat. It is strictly for transporting electricity from the power source to the start of the heating cable run. Do not attempt to use this to melt snow.
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WATERTIGHT CONNECTION REQUIRED: The point where this Cold Lead connects to your Heat Cable must be sealed with a Power Connection Kit (Splice Kit). You cannot just twist the wires together and wrap them in tape. That will fail and trip your breaker.
THE WASATCH STANDARD:
We believe in doing it right the first time. This kit gives you everything you need to make a splice that you never have to worry about again.
THE WASATCH GUARANTEE:
We stand behind our craftsmanship. Every Plug ‘N’ Play kit is backed by an unbeatable 10-Year Limited Warranty. We build them to last, so you can sleep soundly while the snow melts.
NEED HELP WITH LAYOUT?
Check out our “Diagrams & Layouts” page or watch Eric’s latest tutorial to see exactly how to space your clips and apply M-1 glue for a leak-free install. – Coming Soon!
WHAT’S INCLUDED
- Drexan MultiTrace® Self-Regulating Cable (The gold standard for longevity)
- Factory-Terminated Power Plug (Grounded & Lighted) OR
- GFEP Factory-Terminated Power Plug (Grounded & Not lighted)
OTHER MATERIALS NEEDED:
- Aluminum Roof Clips: These corrosion-resistant clips are designed to hold the cable firmly in the “zig-zag” pattern on both asphalt shingles and metal roofs. Click Here
- M-1 Structural Adhesive: This is the only glue we trust. Unlike silicone that peels off in a year, M-1 creates a permanent chemical bond (up to 400 PSI) that cures even in damp or cold conditions. Requires a caulk gun. Click Here
How many Clips & Glue do I need? For a standard zig-zag or valley installation, a good starting point is to estimate 1 clip for every 24 inches (2 feet) of run.
- Note: This is an approximation based on typical roof layouts. Every project is unique, so don’t stress about getting the number perfect—you can always purchase extra clips or tubes of M-1 adhesive later if you find you need tighter spacing.
WHY CHOOSE A Heatcable.com ‘N’ PLAY KIT?
- Skip the Electrician: No hard-wiring required. These kits come with a pre-terminated, grounded power plug. Just mount the cable and plug it in.
- Instant Visual Check: The integrated Lighted Plug gives you instant peace of mind. One look tells you the system is powered up and melting snow. (Note: Actual plug brightness and color may vary).
VOLTAGE MISMATCH
WHY 120V MATTERS. DO NOT PLUG THIS 120V KIT INTO A 240V POWER SOURCE. HERE IS WHAT HAPPENS IF YOU DO:
The “Fixed Resistance” Danger: Old-school cables have a fixed resistance. If you double the voltage (by plugging into 240V), they get hotter and hotter until they burn themselves out or start a fire.
The Drexan Difference (Fail-Safe): Our self-regulating cable is smarter. If you hit it with 240V, it tries to generate 4x the power. However, because it is self-regulating, it senses that massive heat spike and fights to regulate it downward.
The Result: The cable wins the safety battle, but loses the war. The internal core is pushed beyond its limit trying to keep you safe. Instead of catching fire, it will simply “fail cold”—meaning the core degrades and will permanently stop producing heat.
Bottom Line: Plugging this kit into 240V won’t burn down your house, but it will ruin your cable and void the manufacturer warranty.
⚠️ CRITICAL WARNING
- It is recommended not to cut this cable. If a qualified technician cuts or modifies the cable for any reason, the warranty from Heatcable.com is immediately void. In this instance, the responsibility of the warranty falls entirely on the qualified technician performing the work. If you have excess cable, instead of cutting it, we recommend doubling it back into the gutter or downspout to increase melting power in that area.
- Code Compliance: Installation must strictly adhere to all applicable state and local electrical codes. We recommend consulting with a licensed electrician or your local building authority to ensure full compliance.
⚠️ INSTALLATION WARNING
Must be installed by a Qualified Electrician. To maintain the UL 508A Certification and ensuring the GFEP functions correctly, all input and output wiring must adhere to local, state, and national electrical codes.
✅ COMPATIBILITY CHECKLIST
Before you buy, confirm this kit fits your home:
- Voltage: 120V standard outlet (Verify your power outlet is 120V, not 240V).
- Gutter Type: Safe for Aluminum, Steel, and Copper gutters/downspouts.
- Outlet Proximity: Measure the distance from your roof edge to the outlet. You cannot use an extension cord. Ensure the kit length + lead is sufficient to reach the power source directly.
❌ INCOMPATIBLE / DANGER
To prevent fire, shock, or system failure, AVOID the following:
- NO EXTENSION CORDS: Never plug this kit into an extension cord. The resistance can cause overheating and fire. It must be plugged directly into a wall receptacle or controller.
- NO BURIED CABLE: Do not install this cable inside walls, under shingles, or buried in building insulation. The cable can be installed under our Patented Thermal Cartridge System.
- NO COILING: While Drexan cable is self-regulating, do not leave the cable coiled up in a tight spool while powered on. Unspool the cable completely before plugging it in to test.
⛑️ Important Safety & Specs:
- GFEP Protection: Safety is non-negotiable. If you do not select a kit with a built-in GFEP plug, the device must be used with a Ground-Fault Equipment Protected (GFEP) circuit.
- System Compatibility: The GFEP can also be applied in a custom or standard controller box, provided the controller already includes a GFEP component.
- Factory-Built Confidence: We don’t outsource our quality. These are assembled right here in Utah by pros who know winter.
TOOLS & TIPS
- Caulk Gun: Required for applying the M-1 Structural Adhesive. (We recommend a high-ratio “dripless” gun for easier application in cold weather).
- Extension Ladder: To safely access your roofline.
- Clean Rags & Isopropyl Alcohol: Essential for cleaning smooth surface areas—such as membrane and metal roofs—where clips will be glued. Any dust or grime left on the surface will cause the adhesive to fail.
- Light Duty Brush: Essential for brushing away loose granules and debris on asphalt shingle roofs before installing clips.
- Measuring Tape: To ensure consistent spacing for your “zig-zag” pattern.
- Pliers: Helpful for crimping the roof clips slightly if needed for a tighter hold on the cable.
🔥 PRO-TIPS FROM THE FIELD
- Don’t just install it—install it like a pro.
- The “Hershey Kiss” Method: When using the M-1 glue, don’t smear it flat like paint. Apply a nickel-sized dollop (shaped like a Hershey Kiss) under the clip. Press the clip down until glue pushes through the holes, but leave a layer of adhesive between the clip and the roof. This creates a chemical bond that lasts for decades.
- Create the “Melt Channel”: Remember, the cable doesn’t melt the whole roof; it creates a path for water to escape. Ensure your cable extends past the roof edge (1 inches or more) over the gutter to prevent an ice dam from forming right at the lip.
- Check Your GFEP: If you aren’t buying the GFEP plug option, you must plug this into an outlet protected by a GFEP breaker. We recommend testing the breaker before every winter season. Note: Your GFEP may also be in your controller.
- The “Drip Loop”: When plugging the unit in, make sure there is a small loop in the power cord below the outlet. This prevents water from running down the cord and directly into your electrical socket.
Our Guarantee
We stand behind our craftsmanship. Every Plug ‘N’ Play kit is backed by an unbeatable 10-Year Limited Warranty. We build them to last, so you can sleep soundly while the snow melts.
NEED HELP WITH LAYOUT?
Check out our “Diagrams & Layouts” page or watch Eric’s latest tutorial to see exactly how to space your clips and apply M-1 glue for a leak-free install. – Coming Soon!
Please consult the Drexan MultiTrace spec sheet for circuit capacities. Because this item is built to your unique specifications, returns are subject to a 25% restocking fee plus return shipping costs.
ADDITIONAL INFORMATION
Selectable options:
- Length
- Custom
Product specifications:
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