Self Regulating Heat Cable End Seal Kit

Professional Heat Cable End Seal Kit

The Most Important 4 Inches of Your Install.

You’ve run the cable, clipped it to the roof, and hooked up the power. You’re done, right? Wrong.

Leaving the end of your heat cable exposed—or worse, wrapping it in standard electrical tape—is the fastest way to destroy your system. The Wasatch End Seal Kit is the industry-standard method for permanently terminating the end of a self-regulating cable run. It seals the core against moisture ingress, preventing corrosion and ensuring your cable lasts for decades.

Why You Need This Kit:

• Water is the Enemy: Self-regulating cable has a conductive core. If moisture enters the end of the cable, it can cause the carbon matrix to delaminate or short out. This heat shrink tube creates a 100% waterproof barrier.

• Adhesive-Lined Armor: This isn’t standard wire-wrap. This is heavy-wall heat shrink lined with a heat-activated adhesive (glue). When heated, the glue melts and bonds to the cable jacket, creating a seal that is impossible for water to penetrate.

• UV Resistant: Built to withstand constant sun exposure on the roof without cracking or peeling.

Kit Specifications:

• Type: Heavy-Duty Adhesive-Lined Heat Shrink Tubing

• Diameter: 1-1/2″ (fits all standard self-regulating cables)

• Length: 4″ (provides ample overlap for a secure seal)

• Application: Used for terminating the “dead end” of the cable run.

🛠 Tools You Will Need:

Success is 90% preparation. Have these ready before you start:

• Heat Gun: Required. Do not use a lighter, torch, or hair dryer. You need the high, consistent temperature of a heat gun to properly activate the internal adhesive lining without burning the outer jacket.

• Pliers (Flat Nose or Linesman): You will need these to clamp the end of the tube shut while it is hot. Do not use your fingers!

• Wire Cutters: To cleanly trim the bus wires and grounding braid so they don’t touch inside the seal.

🔥 Pro-Tips from the Field

Master the “Pinch & Seal” technique used by Eric Wimmer.

• The “Cut-Back” Safety Zone: Before sliding the tube on, cut a small V-notch out of the matrix between the two bus wires, or snip one bus wire 1/8″ shorter than the other. This guarantees that even if the cable is crushed later, the two live wires physically cannot touch and arc.

• Pliers are Mandatory: Heat the tubing until it shrinks tight. While it is still hot and soft, take your pliers and firmly pinch the open end closed. Hold it for 10-15 seconds until it cools and stiffens. This fuses the internal glue together, creating a watertight “clamp” at the tip.

• Don’t “Drown” the Tip: Even though this seal is waterproof, don’t tempt fate. When laying out your cable, try to position the end seal so it isn’t sitting at the very bottom of a gutter where sludge and standing water accumulate. Clip it slightly up the side or end of the gutter if possible.

⚠️ Common Rookie Mistakes:

• Mistake #1: Forgetting the End Seal. (It happens more than you think). Never leave a cut end exposed to the air for more than a few days. Moisture wicks into the core like a straw.

• Mistake #2: The “Short Circuit” Crimp. If you pinch the pliers too hard over the wires themselves (rather than just the empty tubing at the end), you might crush the two bus wires together, creating a dead short. Only pinch the excess tubing at the very tip!

THE WASATCH STANDARD:

We believe in doing it right the first time. This kit gives you everything you need to make a splice that you never have to worry about again.

THE WASATCH GUARANTEE:

We stand behind our craftsmanship. Every Plug ‘N’ Play kit is backed by an unbeatable 10-Year Limited Warranty. We build them to last, so you can sleep soundly while the snow melts.

NEED HELP WITH LAYOUT?

Check out our “Diagrams & Layouts” page or watch Eric’s latest tutorial to see exactly how to space your clips and apply M-1 glue for a leak-free install.  – Coming Soon!